Bandipur!

It’s been almost two weeks since clinic finished.  I’ve been in Boudha for most of that time, resting and recovering a bit, hanging out with my beloved  compatriot Seven, to celebrate her birthday and a couple days later to bid her farewell as she travels to Thailand. 
I was unable to kick a cold that started now almost four weeks ago, although diligently wearing my dust mask in the polluted city of Kathmandu, Boudha being sort of a suburb, if you can call it that, where the air is still filled with dust and particulate, along with diesel fumes etc.  So this week I decided to skip town and travel down the highway in the direction of Pokhara, climb the hill by microbus, and land in Bandipur.  What a retreat, and a wonderful way to kick this cold to the curb. 

Main Drag, Bandipur

Bandipur is car-free in it’s center, with slate cobblestone separating the two sides of mom and pop shops, many of which have opened their doors as modest guesthomes running about $5 a night.  Life here seems relatively undisturbed by the recent tourism, at least when you leave town, and the terraced hillsides remain teeming with rotated crops, and families herding goats and cows.  As I walked a trail yesterday a man and his son urged a slow-moving ox along, plowing the field in preparation for the next planting. 

When I arrived the first day I popped into the Old Bandipur Inn desiring a night of luxury.  It was a bit more expensive than I anticipated, the guidebook I am using 3 years old (although the most recent edition, ahem, in need of an update!), but yet with dinner and breakfast included, I decided to be lavish and splurge.  As I went through various emotions of slight guilt, feeling inappropriate, undeserving etc etc I realized:  I couldn’t find a moldy, run-down, podunk motel on the side of I-5 for this price!  (Amazing how relative it all becomes once out of the familiar expensive economic environment of the US) And, this place is absolutely fantastically gorgeous.  After walking down the street a ways, checking out a couple of guesthouses 1/6^th the price, or less even (and agreeing to spend two nights at one in the following days, curbing my extravagance...) I found I desired greatly to get back to the Old Inn and sit and relax with tea and my book.  It’s a small haven!  And I am ever-so deserving, I finally allowed myself to accept. 

Nice view!

The following day two new friends arrived in Bandipur, Marie and Dustin, from Pokhara.  We will be trekking together with another couple of friends, Kax and Brian arriving from the states in a few days.  Kax is the mutual friend bringing this whole group together, and it was a fun coincidence that Marie and Dustin were planning to detour up to Bandipur at the very same time I had decided on it, me in need of fresh air and a break from the city, they on their way from Pokhara to Kathmandu.  We shared a lovely dinner over candlelight, where they placed a small American flag on our table (is that so necessary?  I joked, and Marie exclaimed how she wants to fly the flag, reclaiming it from the meanings it has taken on...yes! I agree), and were serenaded by the local musician with his nightly gig, and made to dance by the friendly wait staff.  Magical. 

We hiked to a cave the other day, a good hearty hike sure to build a little stamina for our impending trek in the Langtang range.  It was huge!  And I was happy for the company, having almost made it on my own the day before but knowing I would not have explored it to the extent we did as a group.  We picked up Matthew, a new French friend who had hiked on his own, his girlfriend recuperating from sickness back at their place. 

Tomorrow back  to the valley, where we will meet up with Tsering, our guide for the trek!  It will be a fantastic adventure, no doubt.  Pictures of the grand Himal to be posted upon our return. 

Ok, a preview--Langtang Peak viewed from Nagarkot

 Also, stay tuned for an environmental update, showcasing Beautiful Forest Group, formed in Chapagaon, initiating local clean-up and environmental awareness and education.  Totally inspiring.  Wonderful to witness this happen the final weeks I was in clinic. 

At Kopan Monastery last week

                                                                                                                                          

One final week

Okay!!!!  Out of clinic now, this was the final week's post, then the internet broke...
So here it is.

I am so sorry to not have put anything up for so long!  Things got crammed, then I got sick.  Now on the mend, my energy, thankfully, is up again and ready for one last week of treating patients.  It has been a wonderful ride.

What has it been like?

Well...what a phenomenal experience (in all senses of the word) it has been to work at the Vajra Varahi Healthcare clinic.  I can't even begin to tell you how much kneepain , back pain, and gastric pain we have all treated.  We have treated stroke sequella and other hemiplegic disorders such as Bell's palsy,  numerous sciatica cases (which can often be lumped in with back pain), shoulder and arm pain, numbness and tingling (in Nepali they will say 'zum zum zum zum' or 'cutta cutta cutta' for various sensations, tingling and aching, respectively) in any part of the body, headaches, and common colds.  There are plenty of complicated cases, difficult at times to suss out, even harder to get straight stories, which obviously makes sussing out all the harder.  I am treating a young patient with cerebral palsy and epilepsy, whose mother's only goal is to help him communicate when he is hungry, and when he needs to go to the bathroom. The only time I have ever needled DU-8 was on him, and I did it without knowing why.  Thankyou, intuition.  (Pardon the shoptalk, non Chinese med readers). 

A patient with whom I have had the deepest connection is a patient with Parkinson's disease.  I so deeply enjoyed working with her, and was terrified of her at the same time.  Treating a virtually untreatable disease is incredibly challenging, especially when the patient you are working with desperately wants to be cured, and seeks numerous avenues to determine if someone can give this 'cure' to her.  I've told a story about part of my experience working with this patient in a blog published on the ARP website.  Please find it here:

http://www.acupuncturereliefproject.org/news-blog

Not too long ago I wrote this in my journal:

I dreamt of my patient this morning.  She was young, agile, interacting with her family with an extreme lightness of character and laughter, jumping even.  I was astounded, waiting for her to come in for treatment.  Then I turned and there again she was, in  her red sari and yellow scarf she wears every day, waiting quietly, still in the body she has come to know only in the past few years.  But she didn't look sad.

If sickness strikes any one of us, or any of our patients, changing reality to a degree unprecedented, and if we can maintain any semblance of a dancing, joyful being inside, if that is what is possible with any form of medicine, then we have succeeded, somehow.